Each Cook Must Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.
It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Surpassing the Stars
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
A Ethos of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Path of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
An Recognition for the People
This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.