Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
